{"id":85103,"date":"2025-04-04T14:00:20","date_gmt":"2025-04-04T13:00:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bigbossbattle.com\/?p=85103"},"modified":"2025-04-03T10:13:09","modified_gmt":"2025-04-03T09:13:09","slug":"halo-flashpoint-spartans-painting-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bigbossbattle.com\/halo-flashpoint-spartans-painting-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"Let’s Paint! Halo Flashpoint: Spartans"},"content":{"rendered":"
Eyes down, Spartan.<\/b><\/h5>\n

Having done a couple of guides on some fantasy painting, I\u2019m going down a different route and giving a quick run through on how to get your Spartans table ready for <\/span>Halo: Flashpoint<\/span><\/i><\/a>, which B3\u2019s lovely <\/span>Aaron Jones<\/span><\/a> enjoyed quite considerably. Whilst having things fully painted is necessary, it certainly makes the tabletop <\/span>look more impressive<\/span><\/a> during a game, and here I\u2019ll give you a quick way to make your models look nice enough to battle it out.<\/span><\/p>\n

This isn\u2019t nearly as intricate as some of the paint guides I\u2019ve <\/span>written before<\/span><\/a>, so if you haven\u2019t done much painting before, this should do you well. The method we\u2019re going to use today is nicknamed \u201cdouble slapchop\u201d. Slapchop is a popular painting technique that involves you dry brushing white paint on a black undercoat to generate light and shadow, then using contrast paints in individual places. It\u2019s a method that can get solid results quickly, and you can absolutely use that here.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Double slapchop has you, surprisingly, do this twice. We\u2019re going to paint our first contrast paint on, then dry brush white again, before applying another contrast paint over it. The first contrast paint you use will complement the second, giving a richer, more interesting colour tone than using just one colour. The fact that Spartan armour doesn\u2019t have a huge number of colours to it means you won\u2019t even need many paints for this.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Halo
Chaos Black has a lovely smooth finish for an undercoat.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Undercoat<\/b>: Chaos Black spray<\/span><\/p>\n

Contrast Paints<\/b>: Iyanden Yellow, Shyish Purple, Black Legion, Guilliman Flesh<\/span><\/p>\n

Base Paints<\/b>: Corax White, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Retributor Armour<\/span><\/p>\n

Layer Paints<\/b>: Kakophoni Purple<\/span><\/p>\n

Shades<\/b>: Nuln Oil<\/span><\/p>\n

Optional Extras<\/b>: Iron Warriors, Abaddon Black, Cygor Brown, Stirland Mud (Technical), Grass flock and grass tufts.<\/span><\/p>\n

Brushes<\/b>: Size 00, Size 3, base brushes, Army Painter Small and medium Dry Brush, and Games Workshop Texture Spreader (optional)<\/span><\/p>\n

Priming the models<\/span><\/h2>\n

Use your Chaos Black spray can to get good coverage all over the model. Don\u2019t miss the underside of arms and weapons as you really do need that darker tone to generate the light and shadow from the contrast paint.<\/span><\/p>\n

Once primed, you\u2019ll need to do a heavy dry brush using Corax White. Use your medium dry brush and get some of the paint on it, then rub most of it off onto a piece of tissue paper so that there\u2019s only a little paint left on the brush. Now brush up and down on the model using that brush, and you should get a layer of white paint appearing on the raised edges, leaving a darker colour underneath. You\u2019ll want to do this from the top of the model, working down, as you\u2019ll want sections that are further down to be darker than the upper regions.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Halo
Drybrushing can be a little “powdery”, so many better painters use an airbrush to get the same effect but smoother.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

First Contrast<\/span><\/h2>\n

Now for the easy bit. Take your Iyanden Yellow and your size 3 brush (which you\u2019ll use for all your contrast paints) and paint the whole model, avoiding the weapon if possible. Don\u2019t worry too much about getting it on the body suit or even the weapon, as we\u2019ll fix those bits later. Try not to let the paint pool in places, as big blobs of yellow will spoil the next layer. You should notice that the regions that stayed black after your dry brush should look like a much darker yellow than the white parts. This is good and will continue to work on the next layer.<\/span><\/p>\n

Make sure it\u2019s fully dry, and then do another white dry brush. This one should be a bit lighter than the last one, and some of the yellow should still be visible. This will make the purple look bolder in the next stage, so don\u2019t go for complete coverage as you\u2019ll just be undoing all your good work.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Halo
You can still see some of the yellow underneath which will set off the purple nicely.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Second Contrast<\/span><\/h2>\n

Next, we\u2019re going to paint over the whole armour again using Shyish Purple. Just like before, avoid the gun if possible, but don\u2019t fret too much. Still try to avoid pooling so there aren\u2019t blobs of colour where you don\u2019t want them. Once dry, we\u2019ll fix the body suit and gun by using Black Legion. This is a fairly thick contrast paint and will cover up the purple quite nicely. Paint over the gun and anything that you would consider to be the suit underneath the armour. This isn\u2019t the same for all the models, but the middle of the back, parts of the shoulders, between thighs, gloves, and parts of the boots are good bets.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Halo
The Black Legion contrast will cover a lot of the white on the gun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Final Details<\/span><\/h2>\n

Aside from the base, you could argue that this is fairly finished, but adding a few details will make the model look more detailed. First, some more dry brushing, but this time use your small dry brush to keep things a little more accurate. Use Kakophoni Purple and lightly dry brush parts of the purple armour. This will provide a little highlight on the raised edges and give a little more interest to the model. We\u2019ll do the same with Mechanicus Standard Grey on the weapon and black body suit. Be careful doing this as you want to avoid getting it on the purple. If you want to avoid risk, just focus on the gun so it can appear more detailed, but take your time and be gentle.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Lastly, use your Retributor Armour with a size 00 brush and paint the visor on the helmet. Depending on which model you\u2019re painting, this could be a very small area, so a steady hand small movements help. The model I\u2019ve used has a larger visor, so I also added some Guilliman Flesh on after to give a little more detail. Optionally, You can use Cygor Brown on any leather pouches you see attached to the models legs, and perhaps apply a little Iron Warriors on some little raised parts of the armour to add interest. This latter part is purely optional, and I only did a little on the model to suggest where it could go.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Halo
With a drybrush and the visor painted, this would look find on the table for a quick and dirty paint job.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Now, you can call your model done here, but I like a nice base to set things off. I used Stirland Mud and a texture spreader tool. Give the Stirland Mud a good shake and spread the paint across the base. If you have grass flock, which is very fine bits of green fabric, you can sprinkle this over the base whilst the paint is still wet which will give you a nice base with little effort once dry. You can even add an extra grass tuft once you\u2019re done. To finish, paint the rim of the base black to get your complete piece.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Halo
I’ll always argue in favour of a nice grass tuft.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The choice of colours here is heavily up to you, but choosing the right colour combinations and which contrast paints to apply is quite important. In terms of combinations, opposite colours on a colour wheel which work well, but you need to ensure you get a thick enough paint, and that comes with experience. I initially tried the above model using Magos Purple, but this was much too thin and showed far more of the yellow than I wanted. If you want to try out some different paints, I\u2019d recommend going into a Warhammer store and speaking to someone there who will be able to help you out.<\/span><\/p>\n

As always if you\u2019ve enjoyed this guide then please leave a comment below, and don\u2019t forget to check out our <\/span>Painting Guide Hub<\/span><\/a> for more Let\u2019s Paint! tutorials and content. <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Double slapchop has you, surprisingly, do this twice. We\u2019re going to paint our first contrast paint on, then dry brush white again, before applying another contrast paint over it.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":85104,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2983],"tags":[10749,10730],"class_list":["post-85103","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tabletop-features","tag-halo-flashpoint","tag-lets-paint"],"yoast_head":"\nLet's Paint! Halo Flashpoint: Spartans – Big Boss Battle (B3)<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Eyes down, Spartan. 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