{"id":84796,"date":"2025-02-21T14:00:38","date_gmt":"2025-02-21T14:00:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bigbossbattle.com\/?p=84796"},"modified":"2025-04-01T12:32:43","modified_gmt":"2025-04-01T11:32:43","slug":"lets-paint-warriors-of-rohan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bigbossbattle.com\/lets-paint-warriors-of-rohan\/","title":{"rendered":"Let’s Paint! Warriors of Rohan"},"content":{"rendered":"
Painting some warriors? Let me lend you a (Ro)hand.<\/b><\/h5>\n

The Warriors of Rohan are included in the War of the Rohirrim launch box for the new edition of Middle Earth Strategy Battle Game. They\u2019re pretty good looking, even by Games Workshop\u2019s standards, but they look even better if you slap on some paint before getting them to the table. Now, I\u2019m no professional painter, but I can get models looking nice enough in a reasonable time.<\/span><\/p>\n

In this article, I\u2019ll be telling you how to take them from grey to something that will look good in battle without too much difficulty. The majority of this will involve using contrast paints, which will increase the speed of getting them game ready by a considerable margin. These paints can be used straight from the pot, meaning you won\u2019t need to worry about mixing water to smooth them out. There are a few little optional tricks too, which will give them a little boost in the visual department. The paints I\u2019ve used are below.<\/span><\/p>\n

Undercoat<\/b>: Grey Seer Spray<\/span><\/p>\n

Contrast Paints<\/b>: Snakebite Leather, Cygor Brown, Baal Red, Black Legion, Ork Flesh, Guilleman Flesh, Skeleton Horde.<\/span><\/p>\n

Base Paints<\/b>: Leadbelcher, Wraithbone, Retributor Armour<\/span><\/p>\n

Shades<\/b>: Nuln Oil, Seraphim Sepia, Carroberg Crimson<\/span><\/p>\n

Optional Extras<\/b>: Stirland Mud Technical paint, Warboss Green Layer paint, Rynox Hide Base paint, grass tufts, Lahmian Medium.<\/span><\/p>\n

Brushes<\/b>: Size 00, Size 3, Size 6 base brushes, Army Painter Medium Dry Brush and Games Workshop Texture Spreader (both optional)<\/span><\/p>\n

A quick note on the model bases before we begin. I\u2019ve kept the bases off the models whilst painting. This is because I like to paint the bases separately, before attaching the models to them after. This isn\u2019t necessary, and you can absolutely stick the models to the bases and paint from there. There’ll be more on bases later in the article.<\/span><\/p>\n

Priming the models<\/span><\/h2>\n

The first step is to prime the models using the spray can. Make sure to give them a good spray all over. You don\u2019t want to drown the model, so just a thin coat across them so your contrast paints will stick. I use a little blue tack to stand them up on a box and then spray on all sides. Once dry, I\u2019ll lay them on their backs to spray into the areas I can\u2019t reach whilst upright. Make sure they\u2019re fully dry before you start!<\/span><\/p>\n

Leathers, Wood and Cloths<\/span><\/h2>\n

Your first contrast paint will be Snakebite Leather. Paint this across the skirts and sleeves, as well as the hafts of any spears or axes and bows if you\u2019re painting archers. You should also paint the inside of the shields if your model has one, or the flights of arrows sticking out of quivers. This paint may look a little blotchy once done, but it will be cleaned up later. I used my size 6 brush here.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
We’ll use some shades to clean up the skirts later.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

More leather now, using Cygor Brown on the leather chest pieces, forearm guards, and leg coverings\/trousers. Not all of the models have the chest pieces, instead being equipped with chainmail. This will get painted later on. If your model has a sword, this is a good colour to use on the grip and the scabbard of it. You can also use the for the quiver if you\u2019re painting an archer. This time I switched down to a size 3 brush due to the arm guards being a bit more fiddly.<\/span><\/p>\n

Once dry, you\u2019ll want to paint the underclothes in Baal Red. This is really just the cloth between the leather skirt that you\u2019ve already painted and should be a quick step. Why red though, when Rohan are known for green? This is because red and green are complementary colours, and a little splash of red will make the green stand out all the more. If you want to find out more about choosing colours for painting models in this way, take a look at colour theory videos on YouTube. A size 3 brush was used again for this section.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
Baal Red and Blood Angels Red are really nice contrast paints with a nice strong shade.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You\u2019ll also want to paint the shoes at this point using Black Legion. Nothing fancy here, but try not to get any black over the Cygor Brown you did previously. It\u2019s not a huge problem if you do, but it\u2019ll look smoother if you\u2019re careful and take your time. Still using that size 3 brush. It\u2019s something of a workshorse!<\/span><\/p>\n

Now for the big part of these models: the cloaks. And also the shields, but mostly cloaks! I use a combination of size 6 and size 3 brush here depending on if I\u2019m working on a larger open section, or a part that\u2019s more fiddly and hard to reach. Some of the optional paints can be used here, so you have a couple of choices of how to proceed. We\u2019ll be using Ork Flesh here, which is a really nice green shade, but it can come out a little patchy at times, especially when painting something smooth like cloth. If you want, you can just go ahead and paint the shield fronts and the cloaks in this colour and move on. It\u2019ll look fine for the most part, but if you want a smoother finish, read on.<\/span><\/p>\n

To get a smoother finish, we\u2019re going to thin down the Ork Flesh using some Lahmian Medium. This works better than water as the paint will retain more of its tension and won\u2019t suddenly go running all over the model. On a palette, mix one part Lahmian Medium with two parts Ork Flesh, and then paint the above sections. It\u2019ll look quite thin and anaemic in colour, so once it\u2019s dry, paint another coat over and you\u2019ll get a really nice finish. Watch out for the paint pooling on the bottom parts of the model, and try to move large patches of paint back onto your brush if you can. You don\u2019t want to overload your brush for this part or you\u2019ll end up with large, dark patches on parts of the cloak. You\u2019ll need to be patient for this drying, so maybe go and have a lovely tea.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
The one on the left has a single coat of thinned down Ork Flesh. The right side, though still wet, has a second coat and looks smoother with much greater depth.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Once you\u2019re refreshed, it\u2019s time to do the skin. I\u2019d use my size 00 brush for this as it\u2019s going to be focusing on small areas: the hands and face. Use Guilleman Flesh for this. The hands won\u2019t be a big problem, as if you get a little on the arm guards it won\u2019t show up. For the face, try to be careful. You want to get the skin without getting much, if any, on the cloak around it. If you have a steady enough hand and clear enough eyesight, you could even try avoiding the beards. Don\u2019t worry unduly if you go get paint on the facial hair though. If your model has a helmet with a faceplate, make sure you paint into the eye holes too. We\u2019ll paint over the helmet later, so getting some on the mask isn\u2019t a problem.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
You can see here that I have some on the face mask. By the time we’re done it’ll be tidied up and look much better.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Let the skin dry fully before moving onto the hair and beards. For this, we\u2019ll be using Skeleton Horde. This may seem odd, but this shade of slightly off yellow is quite a nice natural looking shade for hair, especially if we add a shade to it later. Use a small brush here, especially when doing facial hair. When working on those beards, be gentle, and add small amounts of paint. It\u2019s ok to get some on the skin, as the beards will still stand out well enough.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
The dark green of the cloak will hide the Skeleton Horde paint if you get any on the cloak, so long as it isn’t too much. I notice I was a little scruffy with the green!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Moving onto Metal<\/span><\/h2>\n

Looks like it\u2019s later now, as it\u2019s time to paint the metal! Leadbelcher is a base paint, so put some on your palette and add a small touch of water just to thin it out to get a smoother finish. Use this to paint all the metal armour and bladed parts of weapons. Anything that looks metallic should have this added to, but ignore the metal on the shields for now. I used a size 3 for most of this, but switched to a 00 for the helmets. Be careful on that head armour, and take your time when painting the parts that cover parts of the face. Use the edge of the paintbrush to avoid paint slipping into those eye holes.<\/span><\/p>\n

This section can be skipped if you want, but I really think the detail on the shields is worth highlighting. The slightly off-white shade of Wraithbone is a good choice here as it isn\u2019t too bright against the more muted colour scheme. This is a base paint, so mix a little water with it on your palette before <\/span>carefully<\/span><\/i> applying the paint. Use the edge of the brush, not the tip, to paint the raised sections on the shield. If you make a significant mistake, tidying up with Ork Flesh later is a good fix and should hide the error well.<\/span><\/p>\n

Whether you highlighted the shield design or not, we\u2019re nearly finished! You\u2019ll want to use Retributor Armour for some of the details, including that central piece of metal on the shield. The details you should focus on are that part of the shield, as well as the hilts of swords and the ends of and scabbards that might be poking out.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
With the metals on, the model is as good as done, and it looks much more complete. The shield details add a lot. I put a little Seraphim Sepia on the shield to make the details look a little grubby, but that’s very much a personal choice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Concluding with shading & base details<\/span><\/h2>\n

To finish the model itself, we\u2019re going to add some shades. These add some depth to the parts we\u2019ve already painted, making them look less flat. These are used straight from the pot too and can be applied quite feely, but once again try not to overload your brush. You don\u2019t want huge patches of these shades, so rinse your brush and try to reabsorb some from the model if it looks like you\u2019ve used too much. You\u2019ll want to let the model dry between each one of these, but we\u2019ll use Carroburg Crimson on the red cloth, Nuln Oil on any metal, and Seraphim Sepia on the leather skirts (this will clear up some of the untidyness from earlier), the hair, and the beards.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
The shades really make some of the small details stand out. The mail armour has considerably more depth thanks to the Nuln Oil.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And that should be it and you\u2019re ready to stick it to your base! But before you do, you may want to get your base looking pretty first. Use Stirland Mud and the texture spreader (<\/span>not<\/span><\/i> a normal brush as it will get ruined), and just spread it across the base. Once done and dry, spray it with your Grey Seer spray. After drying, you can then paint the base using Ork Flesh to give it a dark green grass look. If you\u2019d like, you can use a dry brush to apply a very slight layer or Warboss Green as a highlight. To do this, get a little bit of paint onto your drybrush, then using a piece of kitchen paper, rub <\/span>most<\/span><\/i> of the paint off, leaving just a little on the brush. Pass the brush backwards and forwards over the base, and the raised parts will catch a little bit of the lighter green to add some depth. If you have them, now would be a good time to add a grass tuft, which is always a great way to finish off a model. Paint the rim around the edge of the base in Rynox Hide and you\u2019re ready to glue your model to it.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Middle
Grass tufts make any model look better. I put a little rock on as well for more flavour.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And we\u2019re done! You should have a very nice looking model at this point. If you\u2019re looking at the length of this and think it\u2019ll take ages to do, well, you\u2019re half right. I tend to paint these models in batches of six though, so whilst waiting for one bit to dry, I\u2019m working on the same bit of another model which speeds your way through quite well.<\/span><\/p>\n

As always if you\u2019ve enjoyed this guide then please leave a comment below, and don\u2019t forget to check out our <\/span>Painting Guide Hub<\/span><\/a> for more Let\u2019s Paint! tutorials and content. <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In this article, I\u2019ll be telling you how to take them from grey to something that will look good in battle without too much difficulty. The majority of this will involve using contrast paints, which will increase the speed of getting them game ready by a considerable margin.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":84798,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2983],"tags":[10730,6901,10731],"class_list":["post-84796","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tabletop-features","tag-lets-paint","tag-middle-earth-strategy-battle-game","tag-war-of-the-rohirrim"],"yoast_head":"\nLet's Paint! 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